As far as I was concerned, DDO Laurène had it all.
First, for me, as a dog, there is the Beaune connection. Winemaker Véronique Drouhin-Boss has roots all the way back to the 13th-century cellars under the streets of this historical wine centre in Burgundy.
Secondly, DDO “gets it” on the senses front. Evidence suggests dogs have a better sense of smell, and women have better palates. No wonder, then, that with Drouhin-Boss crafting the wine, DDO is setting the standard for pinot in its region.
Then there is the fact that Drouhin-Boss, a fourth-generation member of the esteemed Burgundy family Drouhin, is prepared to recognise that there is a New World out there.
When her father, Robert, became convinced of the potential of Oregon pinot noir following a series of tastings in France and established his Willamette Valley property in 1987, she was the one who transplanted her skills into Oregon, and she now makes some of the best pinots and chardonnays produced anywhere.
DDO — situated in the Dundee Hills at between 400 and 800 feet in elevation on a site similar in climate, latitude and aspect to Burgundy —- is as savvy on the sustainability front. It installed the Oregon wine industry’s largest solar panel system, consisting of over 500 state-of-the-art photovoltaic panels.
The tastes, textures, tannins — all were perfectly in balance (see my tasting notes below) — and then DDO almost spells DOG.
Written and submitted on behalf of RP (not to be confused with Robert Parker) to “Opening the Best,” the bottle being 2004 Domaine Drouhin Oregon (DDO) “Laurène” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills,Willamette Valley, Oregon, Vancouver, October, 2009.
Here are RP's tasting notes: “The 2004 Laurène is seductive. Aromas of cherry & red berry, and a floral mix of cherry blossoms and rose petals. Some clove and spice character. Good finish. As it opens up, hints of cola & fresh undergrowth emerge, something I, in particular, know a lot about.”
The wine was matched with Vancouver Island-bred organic calf’s liver, purple Russian onions, double-smoked bacon with garlic, celeriac mashed potatoes and green peas with mint. Dinner on 10/10 started with Dutch herring in wine paired with an Alsatian riesling, followed by another two reds with a Little Qualicum Cheeseworks brie and Lesley Stowe raisin-and-cinnamon biscuits with neighbourhood-grown Granny Smith and Fuji apples, finishing with Irish whiskey with Lindt hazelnut chocolate.
© S Fuller 2011